Dining in Trujillo: A Food Guide

As yet another day of quarantine slowly passes by, I sit here contemplating today’s state of affairs which, outside of the continued pandemic, includes the death of Ruth Bader Ginsburg (aka the “Notorious RBG”), a battle over who will decide to choose her replacement on the Supreme Court, and the pending US presidential election, not to mention personal changes happening back in New York. Amongst all of this, I also find myself frequently returning to the thought of food. 

I write “returning” as I feel my hunger gradually growing and I’m saddened to, also, think of how long it’s been since I’ve had the opportunity to eat out at a restaurant here in Trujillo. Sure, take-out is a thing and if you’re ever in Trujillo, Peru and are frustratedly trying to figure out what the equivalent to GrubHub is, say hello to Glovo or Rappi (you’re welcome). 

This said, take-out doesn’t quite compare to that moment when you go to your favorite mollejitas place in the city which, despite its large size, is always full and filled with lively, happy customers and, more often than not, always seems to have that one magic table open and ready to welcome you.

So here I am now to reminisce about those times when dining outside of the home was a thing in Trujillo. For when that day returns, here are some of my favorite places to go and foods to eat in the area.

Mollejitas

When in Peru, I highly recommend giving mollejitas a try. Mollejitas as referred to here, for the uninitiated, are chicken gizzards. Maybe not something all are accustomed to eating but, prepared right, they are so so good. 

My favorite place to eat them in Trujillo is at the aptly named Las Mollejitas. We speculate as to the beginnings of Las Mollejitas as it seems to be an old hotel converted into a restaurant. It has many rooms, all of which always seem to be filled with happy customers in the evening. When you visit, order yourself a Cusqueña beer (or an Inca Kola or Coca Cola, for those who don’t drink alcohol) and the mollejitas al ajo, which are mollejitas in a fantastic garlic sauce, the recipe of which is a well-guarded secret (we’ve, admittedly, tried to ask for it to no avail). Generally, we order ours with a side of onion salad as well and, if we’re especially hungry, with some fried yucca. Regardless, some boiled yucca comes with your mollejitas which you can use to sop up that incredible garlic sauce.

Pollo a la Brasa

The first time I came to Peru, I was fortunate to be connected with my now-friend in Lima who showed me around the city. We started the day by going to eat some lunch which I eagerly insisted had to be something that was distinctively Peruvian. She insisted we eat pollo a la brasa. I hadn’t known what it was at the time, expecting that we would go for a meal that was more something like ceviche, and came to discover that it was broasted chicken served with French fries and salad. I found myself thinking, “What? The famous pollo a la brasa, this, evidently, distinctly Peruvian food is simply a broasted chicken? Not something which I was at all unaccustomed to?”

It’s not just a broasted chicken, though. It’s pollo a la brasa.

Pollo a la brasa is a matter of national pride in Peru. When in doubt, it’s a delicious option.

My favorite pollería in Trujillo is Wilson 2 on Avenida España (I can’t attest to how the pollo a la brasa is at “Wilson 1”). If you’re in a fried chicken kind of a mood, order the pollo broaster.

Anticuchos

I’m already salivating just writing the word “anticuchos”. Anticuchos are grilled beef hearts, typically served with camote (sweet potato) and choclo (Andean corn). You can also commonly order them with French fries and salad. 

Again, for some of my friends from the United States, beef heart sounds a bit out there. All I have to say is, for me, it was love at first bite. My first taste of anticuchos was from a random street vendor and I immediately found myself questioning why I hadn’t had anything like it before. It tastes like a good cut of beef, well marinated, tender, juicy, grilled deliciousness. The smell of anticuchos being grilled is one which, drunk or sober, is difficult to resist. My favorite anticuchos place in Trujillo is Chicama. 

Ceviche

Ceviche is, basically, fresh fish cooked in lime juice. It’s an especially popular dish in the coastal regions of Peru of which you can find a number of variations. Admittedly, when I try to think of the best ceviche I’ve ever had in a restaurant in the area, I actually think of Restaurante Mococho over in Huanchaco. Go with a group, order the ceviche to start and a fish in your choice of sauce for the day. In Trujillo-proper, you can get a good ceviche over at Mar Picante.

Sandwiches

There are a number of places where you can get sandwiches. I recommend giving La Lucha a try. They have a variety of tasty sandwiches to choose from as well as juices and French fries. La Lucha is a chain so you can find them in a few location in Trujillo as well as in Lima and Arequipa.

Pizza

If you’re craving a pizza when you’re in Trujillo and would like to go somewhere other than Pizza Hut or Papa John’s, the best pizza I’ve had in the city was over at El Hornito. It’s not the same as New York (or Chicago) pizza but it’s still delicious.

Meat

I have times where I just crave meat. Nothing else. Just meat. 

For times when you’re having a meat craving, and aren’t quite in the mood for anticuchos, a great place to go for ribs, in particular, is Buffalo Beef BBQ Grill. As for steaks, it’s on the pricier side, but I recommend Coco Torete. 

Sushi

There are several good sushi places in Trujillo. My favorite is Koi Maki Bar. It’s also a bit on the pricier side when it comes to food in Trujillo but they have a number of fantastic flavors to choose from. 

Chifa

Chifa is Chinese food fused with Peruvian elements, basically Peru’s Chinese food. There are a lot of Chifa places around Trujillo. My current favorite is Chifa Peter Lei.

Sweet Tooth

If you’re in the mood for some ice cream, Aldodiego is a firm favorite in Trujillo. I also remember loving the ice cream over at Blanqui. There’s also a tiny place on Los Incas called Anís & Canela where I had the best brownie I’ve ever tried in Trujillo. Have yet to try their coffees and the like but if they’re anything like the brownie then they’re bound to be fantastic.

If you’re craving waffles, there’s Vanille Café. There, you can choose between sweet or savory waffles. They also serve a great fruit salad.

Splurge

A place I like to splurge is at Casa Andina’s Restaurante Alma. It’s pricy but oh-so delicious. They serve a variety of classic Peruvian dishes and, also, have fantastic cocktails.